We awoke to an incredible view from Barranco hut, which sits overlooking
a valley and has a nice, unbroken view of the surrounding land. The clouds
parted briefly, and a sky of the purest blue shone through for just a
little while. To our right (when facing the mountain), we could see "breakfast
hill" -- which looked like a sheer wall dotted with small, moving
forms (porters from the two or three other camps on our same schedule).
It was hard to imagine that we would be scrambling up it in the next few
hours.
The hike ended up taking about 3.5 hours, and wasn't too bad, except
for the rain. The barren terrain seemed to almost always be shrouded in
a moving mist, which ranged fron being thin and wispy -- similar to what
would rise off of a calm lake at dawn -- to being thick and wet. It was
so wet that I could only take my camera out once to snap two quick photos.
"Our tent is warm! 60°F. Wally is opening the tent exit now,
so that warmth is temporary. I'm trying to get my polarizers on my lenses,
so I have to warm the lenses up slowly, sealed in zip-lock bags, to
avoid having them fog up from condensation. I can't believe I forgot
to put them on before today! There's so much light reflecting off of
the little cloud droplets -- all of the photos might have been more
clear, I think. Oh well. We're at the halfway point between Barranco
and Barafu. It's raining, of course. Wally and I are eagerly awaiting
the supposed arrival of our gear. Tomorrow we head to Barafu, sleep
until midnight, and begin the longest day of the climb, to the summit!
We're being called to lunch now, but I'm missing my dry tennis shoes,
which were packed in the bag the porters were carrying. No dry shoes!
Wally is out looking for them now. I hope they just took it out of the
bag by mistake because it doesn't look like the rest of the clothing
in there. In fact, the bag it's in was originally theirs, so it is an
easy mistake to imagine. 1:29pm
"OK. Got my shoes back. We just had a satisfying lunch, and are
again in our tents resting and waiting for the rain to stop. It appears
to stop in the evenings and for a few hours each morning. Wally has
decided to attempt to summit even if our bags don't arrive. I guess
it can't hurt to try, although we definitely don't have the proper equipment
(enough insulated water bottles, flashlights). We'll just hope for equipment.
Most of the climb thus far has been mental, so I have hope that we'll
summit. Photo told us that assuming that none of us get sick, we'd all
make it to the top. He thinks we're fit enough. It's raining pretty
hard now. When will it stop?! Hopefully it will stop by the time I have
to go pee. I wonder what Margo is doing... Oh my god. The rain is really
coming down now. I don't envy the 6-day Machame route folk, who are
still climbing upwards towards Barafu right now. In nine short hours
they will be roused for the summit trek. All three of us are acclimitizing
well, and none of us have headaches or are breathing hard at rest anymore.
We'll have spent three nights at roughly 4000 meters before ascending
to Barafu (4600 meters) for 10-11 hours of rest (before summitting).
Wow -- this journal is not satisfying to write in. My mind feels cloudy
and everything emerging from my pen sounds inane.
"We trekked today through valleys of shale carved out by lava.
The terrain seemed so alien, and was a great contrast from the muddy
rain forest we trekked through just a few days ago. By chance, Alison
is also currently reading Murakami's
Norwegian
Wood, which was neat to discover. On the path today we saw numerous
broken thermoses. I guess it's not unusual to break them; they're made
of glass inside, and the path was pretty steep and rocky at times. It's
raining so hard I can no longer hear the porters talking. I can also
see a little river of water between the tent and the tarp it's laid
out on... wait a minute. What a crappy place to put a tent! There's
a channel on my side where water is flowing. On top of all of this,
I still have to go pee. (Wally and I got out of the tent to dig new
flow channels around the it. Oh, and it turned out that the channel
of water on my side came from water flowing onto the inner layer of
the tent, down a single zipper that wasn't zipped all the way shut.)"
-excerpt from my journal, 3:04pm
Sleep came easily for me this evening. It became much easier to sleep
after I started taking diamox, presumably because I was no longer oxygen
starved from normal breathing patterns while sleeping. Wally didn't fare
as well, and wasn't really able to sleep (or eat) during the entire climb.
By last night, Wally's sleeping bag was completely soaked from water coming
in from under the tent. I was more fortunate -- my bag was only damp.
Each day we slept in whatever clothing needed drying the most. Nothing
dries on the mountain unless you sleep with it on and let body heat do
its magic. [
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