What a miserable day! As usual, we woke up and waited for the sun to
rise. A little while after we started hearing the porters chat, Alex poked
his head into our tent. After taking Margo down to the gate on the morning
of day two, he had turned around and headed back up the mountain (using
a different route -- the Umbwe route, I believe) to catch up to us. He
informed us regretfully that our luggage had not arrived. I still can
feel the sinking feeling I had when he uttered those words. Luckily, we
had already decided that we should attempt to summit regardless of whether
our bags showed up or not, so it wasn't too much of a blow. However, he
did tell us that Margo's bag had arrived, and was on its way up the mountain
on day two (they intercepted them on the way down) (!). How ironic is
that? (We found out when we got back that Margo and Alex had spent half
an hour on the mountain separating out everything that could have been
useful to Wally and me. They sent it up in a bag with a porter, but we
never received it. I can only imagine how happy I would have been to get
another pair of socks!! *sigh*)
I have developed a horrible pain in my left lung -- it is a sharp, stabbing
pain upon inhalation. This does not seem like a good thing. The hike to
Barafu hut took about 3.5 hours. At least two hours of it involved sleet,
snow, and wind. Even though Wally and I had decided to attempt to summit,
it took all of my willpower to keep my spirits up. I was cold, cold, cold,
and my boots had really started to fall apart, which made my feet even
colder than they had been before. (Un)Fortunately, there's no way they
could have been wetter, since they were already completely waterlogged.
I didn't get any pictures of the hike, or of Barafu camp because conditions
were so bad. On the way, Alex pointed out a grassy area where an American
tourist had died from pulmonary edema. We found out later that the tourist
had been in his climbing group. Scary.
Our campsite was located on a rocky outcropping. When we arrived, we
huddled under some rocks that were jutting out of the cliff wall and watched
the porters try to put the tents up with heavy snow falling all around
us. Some of them weren't wearing gloves -- they must have been freezing!
Anyway, eventually the tents went up, and we crawled inside, leaving our
wet jackets and backpacks outside to "dry". It took awhile to
warm up, but eventually we settled down. Lunch was brought to us (it really
was a luxury because I don't think I would have ventured outside the tent
to eat), and we tried to get some sleep in anticipation of the evening
summitting attempt. Water rendered the one watch the guides and porters
had inoperable, so I volunteered mine to use as an alarm clock.
"[Today] wasn't worth writing about, because... it sucked. We
started hiking pretty late -- 9:20am -- towards Barafu hut, and caught
the brunt of a horrible downpour that lasted two of the three and a
half hours we hiked. Argh. Needless to say, our tents were very wet.
Wally's sleeping bag soaked through yet again (the tarp was wet, which
made the sleeping pad wet, which soaked his bag, so he wasn't very happy).
Getting into the tent everyday poses a perplexing problem: how do you
place the things you value such that they don't get wet? Anyway, we
were brought lunch at 3pm, and then dinner at 5:30pm. I took diamox
sometime around dusk..."
- excerpt from my journal
Wally and I made a Top-10 Equipment wishlist today. Clearly, he's less
of a whiner than I am.
Eric's Wishlist:
1. Boots that aren't falling apart
2. Shell jacket
3. Shell pants
4. Dry wool socks (had dreams about these!)
5. Synthetic shirts
6. Synthetic pants
7. Better gloves
8. Boxers
9. Soap
10. Nalgene bottles
Wally's Wishlist:
1. Shell top
2. Boots
3. Wool socks
4. Shell bottom
5. Snack food
6. Petzl headlamp
[
next section]